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Join date : 2010-05-28
Age : 44
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PostSubject: POKER GLOSSARY   POKER GLOSSARY EmptySat May 29, 2010 2:16 am


There are many terms, slang and abbreviations that cover most situations which occur in the poker world. Knowing them will improve your understanding of what is going on, and any conversation you may want to join. I have split them into 6 groups:

Cards and Hands - individual cards, combinations, made hands and draws.

Plays - not only will most moves you make have been done before, they probably have a name!

Position - It’s hard to read a poker article while not knowing what UTG means.

Players - Best to understand what you are being called.

Chat - Mostly txt chat, but there are a few abbreviations unique to poker.

Misc - General terms and phrases.

This list is not exhaustive so any you want to add post in the poker section.


A-A: American Airlines, Bullets, Pocket Rockets

A-K: Big Slick, “Walking back to Houston”, Cowboys

A-Q: Big Chick, Little Slick, Mrs Slick

A-J: Ajax, Blackjack

A-10: Johnny Moss

A-8: Dean man's hand

K-K-K: Three wise men

K-K: Cowboys, King Kong

K-Q: Marriage, Mixed Marriage (KQ offsuit), Royal Marriage (KQ suited)

K-J: Kojak, King John

K-9: Canine, Fido

Q-Q: Dames, divas, ladies, the Hilton sisters, Siegfried & Roy, Cowgirls

Q-J: Maverick

Q-7: Computer Hand

J-J: Jokers, Fishhooks, Hooks, Johnnies

J-10: Cloutie (as in TJ Cloutier)

J-5: Jackson Five, Motown

J-4: Flat Tyre

10-10: TNT

10-5: Five and dime

10-4: Over and Out

10-2: Doyle Brunson, Brunson (He won two World Series of Poker titles with this hand.)

9-9: Meat hooks, German Virgin

9-6: Big Lick

9-5: Dolly Parton

8-8: Snowmen, Octopuses, Infinities

7-7: Hockey Sticks, Walking Sticks, Candy Canes

7-3: Joe Hachem

7-2: The Hammer or Beer Hand

6-6-6: Devil's hand

5-7: Heinz

5-5: Nickels, speed limit

5-4: Jesse James for his Colt .45, Moneymaker (Chris Moneymaker’s winning hand in ’03)

5-2: Bomber

4-4: Sailboats, ('dark fours' i.e. 4c 4s known as Darth Vader), Mid-life Crisis

3-3: Crabs

2-2: Ducks, Deuces

3: Trey

2: Deuce

ACES UP: A hand that contains two pairs one of which is aces.

AIR: You do not have a hand.

BELLY BUSTER (or Gutshot or Inside Straight): A draw to an inside straight (4 outs) e.g. holding 89 on a board containing 5 and 6, the belly buster would be the 7.

BIG FULL: The best possible full house, as opposed to an 'UNDERFULL', e.g. holding K10, when the board has K,K,10 and your opponent is holding 10,10 (the 3 of a kind determines the strength of the full house).

BLANK (or Brick): A card falling on the board which has of no apparent value, e.g. an offsuit 3 coming on the River of an otherwise high board.

BOAT (Full Barn): Full House

BOTTOM END (or Idiot end or Ignorant end): The lowest end of a straight, when there is a danger of someone having the high end, e.g. holding 89 on a board of 10JQ and your opponent has AK.

BOTTOM PAIR; BOTTOM SET: A pair (or set) made by matching the lowest-ranking board card with one (or two) in your hole cards.

BROADWAY: Straight consisting of 10 J Q K A

CASE CARD: A one outer, the only card of that type left in the deck.

COOLER: You have a very strong hand, unfortunately your opponent has a stronger one. Often KK versus AA pre-flop, or the Second Nuts versus the Nuts.

COUNTERFIETED: A card that you are waiting for to improve your hand, but if it does arrive will give your opponent an even better hand, e.g. with pocket 10s another 10 will give you a three of a kind, but if it does arrive it will give your opponent a straight.

CRIPPLED DECK: A deck with almost nothing left that can help your hand, 'Drawing Thin'.

DEAD HAND: A hand that has no possibility of winning. Also used to describe a hand that has been misdealt, or excluded from play in a live game.

DOMINATED HAND: Usually means the kicker is inferior, e.g. AQ is dominated by AK, can also be used to describe for example JJ against QQ.

DOUBLE BELLY BUSTER: A two way inside straight (8 outs).

DRAWING DEAD: You have no outs, e.g. even if you hit the cards you were looking for to make your flush you are drawing dead because your opponent already has a full house. Not a nice place to be.

DRAWING THIN: You have outs, but not many.

FLUSH: A hand with five cards of the same suit.

FULL HOUSE (or Boat or Full Barn): A strong hand consisting of three cards of one rank and one pair

GOLF BAG: A Flush of clubs.

JUNK: A hand with little merit or expected value e.g. 72

KICKER: When two players have hands of equal strength, then it is the player who has the next highest card ( the Kicker) who wins.

LEGITIMATE HAND: A hand with some chance of winning as opposed to a bluffing hand.

LIGHT: A hand which is not likely to be best. Usually used as an action descriptor e.g. to call light with middle pair.

LIVE CARDS: Cards that do not match that of your opponent, e.g. you are forced all-in with 73 and your opponent has AK, could be worse, at least you have two live cards and are not dominated!

MADE HAND (or Pat hand): You are not drawing; your hand is complete and is probably best.

MIDDLE PAIR: You pair the middle card on the flop with one of your hole cards.

NUT FLUSH: When you have the best possible flush.

NUT LOW: When you have the best possible low hand in a low game, at any stage of the play.

NUT STRAIGHT: When you have the best possible straight at any stage of the play.

NUTS: The nut hand is the best possible hand at that stage of the play (Absolute Nuts would be an unbeatable hand even with cards to come). A good place to be!

OFFSUIT (or Off): Cards that are not of the same suit. e.g. your hole cards are King of Spades and Queen of Hearts = King Queen OFFSUIT or OFF.

OPEN ENDED STRAIGHT DRAW: A four card hand where a straight is possible on either end, e.g. 89 in the hole and 10 J in the board (and 7 or Q to hit the straight = 8 outs).

OUTS: Cards that will improve your hand e.g. the ‘Open ended straight draw’ has 8 outs, not count possible pairing outs! Calculate these when making decisions about your play.

OVERCARD: A community card with a higher rank than a player's pocket pair, e.g. you raised pre-flop with JJ and a nasty King lands on the flop.

OVERPAIR: A pair that is higher than any other card on the board.

PAINT (or Royal Card or Picture Card or Face Card): K Q J

PAIR: Two cards of the same rank.

POCKET PAIR (or Wired Pair): Your hole cards make a pair.

QUADS: Four of a kind

RACE (or Coin Flip): When the odds of one player winning a hand over another are approx 50/50, usually when one is 'all-in' eg AK versus 99

RAG: A low-valued card, e.g. 'Ace-rag' could describe your A4. Can also describe a low, unconnected board, 'raggedy'.

RAINBOW: Three or four cards on the board of different suits, a rainbow flop should ease the worries of your opponent who has called with his suited raggedy Ace hitting his flush.

RANGE OF HANDS: What you should be trying to assign to your opponent's hole cards, using his betting and position and any other 'Tells' you can decipher, helping your decisions throughout the hand.

ROYAL FLUSH: A straight flush of 10,J,Q,K,A all the same suit. The 'Nuts'.

RUNNER, RUNNER (or Backdoor): A hand made by hitting the two miracle cards on the Turn and River.

SCARE CARD: A card on the board that could create a strong hand for someone, a potentially scary card for either you or your opponent e.g. an Ace or the third of a suit which may complete someone chasing a flush.

SECOND NUTS: The second best possible hand at that point in the game.

SET: Three of a kind, more specifically when you have the pocket pair with their match on the board.

SHOWDOWN: When there’s no more betting and you and your opponent’s cards must be revealed to discover the winner.

STRAIGHT: 5 consecutive cards e.g. 8,9,10,J,Q

STRAIGHT FLUSH: 5 consecutive cards of the same suit

SUITED CONNECTORS: Two consecutive cards of the same suit, E.g. 89 of hearts, can be a big hand to see a flop to bust the biggies.

TOP KICKER: The best kicker. You and your opponent both have a pair of aces at Showdown, however you also have the King in your pocket so win with the best kicker, 'Top Pair, Top Kicker.'

TOP PAIR: A pair using a pocket card and the highest ranking card on the board.

TOP TWO: Two pair, of the two highest ranking cards available.

TRIPS: Three of a kind, with two on the board and one in the pocket.

WHEEL (or Bicycle): 5-high straight i.e. A-2-3-4-5, these can be referred to as 'Wheel Cards'.

WRAP: Often used in Omaha - four consecutive cards (in Omaha, your hole cards).


Starting from the post flop, and working in a clockwise direction from the first to act:

SMALL BLIND: Immediately to the left of the dealer. You are forced to post half of the blind pre-flop, which can make it tempting to see a flop with junk as you have already put some chips into the pot. You are at a disadvantage post-flop as you act first on every subsequent betting round.

BIG BLIND: You are forced to put contribute a blind to the pot before you see your cards, so if no one has raised, you can check and see a “free flop”. Quite often players think they have to “defend your blind” by calling a raise with junk, simply because you already have invested chips and you might be getting the odds, can be an expensive practise!

UNDER THE GUN (UTG): Immediately left of the Big Blind and the first position to act, having seen your cards pre-flop.
UTG+1: Under The Gun plus one and represents two positions left of the Big Blind

And so forth until late position, the most profitable place to play from the majority of the time:

HIJACK: Two places to the right of the button, it’s called the hijack position because a player in this position can often represent strength if the action has been folded to him, thus taking this move away from the cut-off and the button.

CUT OFF: Immediately to the right of the dealer button, it’s generally regarded as the second-best position available in poker.

THE BUTTON (Dealer): Completes the circle, immediately to the right of the Small Blind, it’s generally regarded as the best position at the table. It is said that you should play a large percentage of your hands from this position and often play them aggressively, as you have the advantage of acting last on each round of betting.

NB: When you have to act before other players, you are “out of position” and when you act after your opponents, you “have position” on them.


ABC POKER: Straightforward poker, playing strong hands in good positions. No fancy plays, just raising with the best and folding the rest.

ACT: To make a play (bet, call, raise, or fold) in your turn.

ACTION: A player's turn to act OR a willingness to gamble.

ADVERTISING: When you play a hand in such a way that you want to give your opponents a misleading image of your style in the hope that it will pay off in later hands e.g. making a bad call or bluff (for relatively little chips!) in the hope that they will pay you off when you make a similar play (for more chips) with the winning hand, or by showing good hands to give the impression you are a ‘nit’

ALL IN (Move In, Ship it, Push): Betting all of your chips in the current hand.

ANTE OFF (or Blind Off): In Multi-Table-Tournaments (MTTs) or Single-Table-Tournaments (STTs), this is when an absent player must continue paying antes and blinds. Or to have your stack reduced by paying ever increasing blinds in tournaments.

BACKDOOR: A draw needing or hitting the Turn and River, ‘Runner-Runner’.

BAD BEAT: You are beaten by a hand that was behind, but Sucked Out with a lucky draw.

BLEED (Bleeding Chips): Consistently losing chips through bad play.

BLOCKING BET (Blocker): Smallish bet made out of position, in an attempt to prevent your opponent from betting more. Designed for pot-control and make it to showdown cheaply.

BLUFF: A bet, raise or re-raise with the intention of making the other players fold although you do not think you have the best hand.

BRING IN: To open a betting round, i.e. be the first player to Act.

BUMP: To raise or re-raise.

CHANGE GEARS: You change the way you have been playing to confuse your opponents or in response to a given situation e.g. increasing blinds or approaching the bubble in a MTT.

CHASE: Calling a bet in the hope of making your draw, often when you have not got the correct odds to do so.

CHECK RAISE: Initially check when it is your turn, then raise when the action comes round to you again, if another player has raised it in the same betting round. A sign of strength, so can be used as a bluff.

CHECKED AROUND: When all the players check in a betting round

CHOP: To split a pot because of a tie or a split-pot game (such as Omaha Hi-Lo). Or an agreement by all players remaining in a tournament to distribute the remaining money in the prize pool according to an agreed-upon formula instead of playing to the tournament payout structure.

COIN FLIP (or Race): You or your opponent is All In and its 50/50 who wins the pot e.g. AK v a smaller Pocket Pair.

COLD CALL: There has been a raise and re-raise and you simply call.

CONTINUATION BET: Having raised pre-flop, it’s the bet on the flop to continue the aggression whether you have a hand or not.

COUNTERFEITED: You are waiting for a card to improve your hand, but unbeknown to you if it does arrive will give your opponent an even better hand.

CRYING CALL: Calling when a player thinks he does not have the best hand, but normally the size of the opponent’s bet forces the call due to the odds and long term expected profit of that call.

DEFEND YOUR BLIND: Calling a raise pre-flop when you are in the Big Blind, usually simply because you have already put chips into the pot.

DONK: Make a bad play.

DONK BET: When first to act, bet into the previous round’s aggressor. Not always a bad name, as the term suggests!

DOUBLE UP (Double through): You go All In versus an opponent with equal or more chips and win.

FLOAT: Calling a bet (usually the on the flop) in order to take a pot down later, regardless of your hand. Used when you suspect your opponent is making a standard Continuation Bet on the flop with Air or a weak hand. Then when he does not improve on Turn you bet and hopefully take the pot.

FOLD (Muck): Muck you cards, return them to the dealer and take no further part in the hand.

FREE CARD: You get to see the next card without having to put any more chips in the pot.

IN THE DARK: make a bet or raise without looking at your hole cards.

INDUCE A BLUFF: Playing a strong hand weakly in the hope your opponent will attempt a bluff.

INDUCE A CALL: Playing a strong hand weakly hoping your opponent will call.

ISOLATE: Raise or ReRaise so that other players can not call, forcing the action heads up if possible.

KEEP THEM HONEST: Calling in a hand to force an opponent who you feel is bluffing to show their hand to the table.

LADDER UP: In the money of a tournament, you stay in the game long enough to see another player eliminated, thereby Laddering Up a prize cash amount. Deliberately folding hands in an attempt to stay in the game.

LAYDOWN: You fold a decent hand in believing your opponent’s is better.

LEAD: The first player to buy into a pot.

LEAK: A leak in your play is a flaw in your strategy or technique which has to be addressed.

LIMP (Limp In): You enter the pot by only calling Big Blind instead of raising.

LIMP-RERAISE (or Backraise): You initially Limp, but then reraise in the same betting round. Usually a sign of strength.

LIMP AND GO: Similar to the Stop and Go, you limp into the pot with the intention of betting (often All-In) on the flop regardless of the cards and wether you are strong or not. Can be usefull when short-stacked in an MTT or STT. An All-In pre-flop will often be called as your opponent will probably be priced in to see and try and knock you out. If your limp is reraised pre-flop, then you are getting the odds to call and it was your second option anyway. However if checked to the flop, the All-In bet may scare off an opponent who will miss more often than hit, even though he would of called an All-In pre-flop!

MUCK: You fold or return your cards to the dealer without the need to show (no Showdown) or the dealer’s pile of discarded cards.

OPEN: Be the first to bet or act.

OVERBET: Betting an amount much bigger than the size of the pot.

OVERCALL: Calling when there has already been a bet and a call.

PAY OFF: Calling a bet when you are most likely losing because the odds justify it.

PLAY THE BOARD: The five community cards on the board are the best you have and you decide to take the hand to showdown.

POST: Make the forced Blind bet.

POST OAK BLUFF: A small bet in a large pot in the hopes that opponents will give up the pot.

POT-COMMITTED: You can not fold because the size of the pot is so large compared to the size of your stack or due to the money you have already invested in the pot.

PROBE BET: A bet after the flop to attempt to find out some information as to how much your opponent likes his hand.

RAISE (Going Uptown): Add an additional bet to that of previous calling players.

RANGE OF HANDS: Your opponent’s pocket cards that you assign to him based on previous plays, position, betting and other factors. Use this to make more informed decisions.

REDRAW: To make one hand and have a draw for a better hand.

RELOAD: To bring more chips to the table or deposit more funds into your poker account.

REPRESENT (Rep): To play as if you hold a particular hand (whether you actually hold it or are bluffing).

RERAISE (Coming over the Top): Raise after an opponent has raised.

RESPECT: Believe your opponents betting as genuine strong hands, due to history between you and act accordingly.

RUSH (Winning Streak): A rapid succession of winning hands, also known as a winning streak. A good place to be!

SANDBAG: To play a strong hand weakly. To check raise or slowplay with what you think is the best hand.

SCOOP: Win the full pot in a hi/low split game such as Omaha Hi/Low

SELL: To bet a relatively low amount with a strong hand, in the hope that your opponents will call the bet.

SEMI-BLUFF: Betting with a marginal or average hand that has a decent chance of improving in a later round.

SLOW PLAY: To play a strong hand weakly in order to hide the strength of your hand - used either to induce a bluff or to encourage an opponent to think he has the winning hand.

SLOW ROLL: Delaying showing your hand or acting when you are pretty sure you have the Nuts at that stage. Not nice!

SMOOTH CALL: You simply call when slow playing a hand or you call, wanting to wait and see what the players acting next will do before committing anymore to the pot.

SPLASH THE POT: Throw your chips in the pot in a disorderly fashion, confusing and misleading, against most house rules as it can be used to cheat the pot.

SQUEEZE PLAY: A bluff reraise with what is likely to be the worst hand, after a raise and one or more calls. Shows strength and can be hard fro previous players to call, as they initially only stayed in the hand due to getting value with their mediocre hands. This play is most effective when a loose aggressive player opens the pot and is called by one or more passive / weak players. Needs to be a large reraise and should be used sparingly when you have a tight image.

STEAL: Winning a pot by betting what is probably a bluff, often referred to raises made to take the Blinds uncontested pre-flop. Mostly used as a term for betting in order to 'steal' the blinds.

STEAM (Steaming): You're angry and should probably quit!

STOP AND GO: You have simply called your opponent’s raise, but in the next round you either bet into him or reraise him, regardless of what your hand is.

STRING BET: A call with one motion and a raise with another, even if it is fractionally later. This is against most house rules as it can illicit a response from your opponent to give you an edge prior to adding the raise. Declare your action before moving your chips! And saying ‘I call your bet… with a raise’ is also deemed a string bet.

STUCK: You are losing over the session or a period of time. Not a good place to be!

SUCK OUT: You have the worse hand, but it defies the odds and hits an out to win, often resulting in your opponent ‘Tilting’.

THREE-BET: The third bet in a round of betting e.g. a call, raise then the Three-Bet, reraise.

TILT: You are emotionally upset for one reason or another, whether it’s due to a bad beat or circumstances outwith poker or frustration and are playing poorly.. time to quit!

TRAP (Slow Play): You have a good hand, but play it passively in the hope that your opponent will bet.

VALUE BET: You are pretty sure you have the best hand and want to extract some more chips, but do not want to bet too much and scare your opponent off… you Value Bet.
WALK: You are in the Big Blind and all players fold to you.


TIGHT AGGRESSIVE (TAG): A tight aggressive player plays few, selective hands, but when he does choose to play he plays it aggressively, betting, raising and check raising. It is generally regarded as the most profitable strategy, most times! If the table becomes short-handed, or the rest of the players are adopting a TAG style, then its time to open up a bit. You do not want to be blinded away waiting on big hands.

TIGHT PASSIVE (TP): A tight passive player has the patience, however lacks the aggression required in many situations, allowing players to catch up to his strong hands and will lay down hands and blinds to the TAGs. Also will not benefit from much action when they do wake up with a hand and start betting.

LOOSE PASSIVE (LP): Often thought of as the fish, loose passive players play too many hands and tend to just check and call, showing neither patience nor aggression. Playing ABC poker against them will reap rewards, but do not be too surprised when they hit the odd 3 outer!

LOOSE AGGRESSIVE (LAG): Maniac players who get action because they give action! Usually very aggressive, betting and raising regardless of their holdings, they could have any two. They will win big, but also lose big, getting paid off when they hit a big hand, but also getting caught on bluffs, and as big hands do not come around too often, it is arguable if this style is a long term winner, although it does have many modern fans. If used in moderation and harnessed this can be a very profitable strategy. To combat their play, you may have to call down lighter than you would like, while also using the check-raise more often. Be willing to lose a few big hands to them while waiting to catch them out, otherwise find an easier table!

BIG STACK: Player with the most chips in the game, Big Stack play often employs bullying the middle stacks.

BOT: A program that some players are rumoured to employ while playing online. You think you have one at your table? Try chatting to them, Bots don’t reply, if that doesn’t work, then check-raise them. But are they myth?

BULLY: A player who raises or reraises frequently to force out more cautious players, often the Big Stack Bully.

CALLING STATION: A weak-passive player who calls a lot, but doesn't raise or fold much. Often in the hope of hitting draws.

CHIP LEADER: The player currently holding the most chips in an MTT or STT.

DONKEY: A bad player who makes blatantly bad poker plays.

FISH: A player who plays and chases with a poor hand in hopes of winning with luck.

GRINDER: A player who makes his living by making small profits over a long period of consistent, conservative play.

MANIAC: Lose and aggressive player, betting and raising regularly, regardless of hole cards.

NIT (Tight): A player who is unwilling to take risks.

RAILBIRD (Rail): A spectator of a poker game, not involved in the game.

ROCK: A very tight player who plays very few hands, usually the big ones.

ROUNDER: A hustler and pro that travels seeking out high-stakes action.

SHARK: A professional player, feeding off the fish.

SHORT STACK: Player(s) with the lowest chip stack left in the game.


ANTE: Sometimes in the later stages of a tournament, in addition to the blinds, each player will be forced to put an additional amount into the pot which is called the 'Ante'. All players pay the same amount pre-flop.

BAD BEAT (Suck Out): When a hand is beaten by a lucky draw by an opponent with an inferior holding when the money went into the pot.

BANKROLL (Roll): The amount of money you have to feed your playing in the long run. Bankroll management is essential for serious play, and used to establish the level of buy-in you should be playing at to reduce risk of playing scared or going broke due to bad play or Variance. Also means to fund someone's participation in a game.

BLIND: A forced bet, pre-flop. As in the Small Blind and the Big Blind. Also to act before seeing your hole cards or the next community card (In the dark).

BOARD: The set of community cards, available to all the players in the hand.

BROOMCORN’S UNCLE: When a player antes/blinds himself broke by folding too much despite already making the forced bets.

BUBBLE: The last finishing position in an MTT or STT that does not get paid, the sickest place to finish, or the last finishing position that will not achieve the goal, e.g. a satellite place or a place in the final table.

BUY-IN: The minimum required amount of chips required to enter a game or tournament.

CHIP AND A CHAIR: Phrase used to describe the point you reach when you have relatively little or no chips left... you never know, you are still at the table and s few double ups and you're back in the game!!

COLD DECK: You have not had any decent hands worth playing for ages, and when you have seen the board, it never hits your hole cards.

COLLUSION: Cheating involving two or more players co-operating with each other to maximise their chances of winning, sharing information about their hands or betting to force other players out etc can be more prevalent online.

DIRTY STACK: In live play - A stack of chips in mixed denomination can mislead other players as to what you have behind and is against most house rules.

DONKAMOUNT: A tournament full of weak players, a minefield.

DONT TAP THE GLASS: A phrase used to remind players that they should not abuse weak player, the Fish it the bowl. By 'tapping the glass' ie abusing them or criticising their play you may scare them off and lose the potential profit.

DRY POT (Side pot): A side pot with no money created when a player goes all in and is called by more than one opponent, but not raised. If subsequent betting occurs, the money will go to the dry pot.

EQUITY: The value of a particular hand, combination of cards or a particular action, in terms of how many chips can you potentially win.

EXPECTATION (+/- EV): What you can expect as a result or return for you action in the long run, whether that is Positive (Winning) or Negative (losing) expectation.

FAMILY POT (Multi-way Pot): In a round where every, or almost every player called the opening bet and is involved at the flop.

FINAL TABLE: After the required amount of players have been eliminated from an MTT, the players left in the tournament sit together at the Final Table to fight it out.

FLOP: The first three board cards in Texas Hold’em.

FOLD EQUITY: Your ability to make opponents fold and the value you gain when they do. Usually centres around your stack size, when short stacked you have little fold equity hence part of the reasoning behind opening all-in when you are down to about 10 BBs.

HAND FOR HAND: Approaching the bubble or the next Ladder Up of an MTT this will commence, whereby each table will be dealt their hands simultaneously lessening the effect of players deliberately 'slow playing' to gain an advantage over players on another table by playing fewer hands and waiting for others to be knocked out.

HEADS UP: A game where there are only 2 players or there are only the two players still active in the pot.

HORSE: A variant whereby you play alternating games ie Hold'em; Omaha 8 or better; Razz; Seven-card stud and Eight or better (7-card stud hi/low split.

IMPLIED ODDS: The ratio between the bet you now have to call to continue in a hand, to the total amount you can expect to win in that hand if you call that bet and you hit your cards. E.g. if your opponents bets is strong enough that you no longer have the odds to call, you can use implied odds, in that if you hit you are probably going to win an additional amount if not all of your opponents chips.

MULTI-TBALE TOURNAMENT (MTT): A tournament involving more than one table, whereby as the players are knocked out the remaining players are moved to keep the tables balance until they at last meet at the Final Table.

NOSEBLEED: The high stakes poker world.

ORBIT: A full rotation of the blinds at a table.

PRE-FLOP: The action before the Flop, i.e. the first three community card are dealt.

PURSE: The total prize pool in an MTT or STT.

REVERSE IMPLIED ODDS: When your hand will either win a little or lose a lot.

RIVER: The fifth board card in Texas Hold’em.

RUSH (Heater): A prolonged winning streak, consistently hitting your cards.

SHOWDOWN: It comes to this if there are two or more players still in the hand when all the betting is concluded. The remaining players reveal their cards to discover the winner.

SICK: A suck out, or a maniac player. Anything that defies the odds or doesn’t seem to care.

SIDE GAME: Usually a cash game, which runs concurrently with an MTT and made up of players who have either been eliminated or opted not to play the tournament. Many Rounders go to the big events just to play these.

SINGLE TABLE TOURNAMENTS (STTs): One table, these are usually Sit and Goes.

SIT AND GO (SNG): A tournament with no scheduled starting time it starts whenever the necessary players have bought in. Single-table sit-and-goes, with nine or ten players, are the norm, but multi-table games are common as well.

STACK: The total chips or money that you have to play with.

STUCK: You are losing and down money.

TABLE IMAGE: How the other players at your table perceive you and your play. You can manufacture a Table Image by Advertising.

TELL: Something in a player's behaviour or demeanour or betting pattern that gives clues to that player's feelings about his hand. Sometimes faked.

TURN: The fourth board card in Texas Hold’em.

VARIATION: When luck takes over and you start losing to the Bad Beats, apparently if you play well, over the course of the long-term variation evens itself out so don’t get despondent!


BRB: Be Right Back
G1: Good One
GC: Good Call
GG: Good Game
GL: Good Luck
ITM: In The Money
LOL: Laugh Out Loud
N: Nice
N1: Nice One
NC: Nice Call
NH: Nice Hand
NHS: Nice Hands
NHWPS: Nice hand! Well Played Sir
NL: No Limit
NLHE: No Limit Hold'em
OMG: Oh My God!
PL: Pot Limit
PLO: Pot Limit Omaha
SNG: Sit-N-Go
TNX: Thanks
TU: Thank you
TX: Thanks
TYVM: Thank You Very Much
UL: Unlucky
VWD: Very Well Done
VUL: Very Unlucky
VN: Very Nice
VNH: Very Nice Hand
VVN: Very Very Nice
WD: Well Done
WB: Welcome Back
YW: You're Welcome
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Join date : 2010-05-23

PostSubject: Re: POKER GLOSSARY   POKER GLOSSARY EmptySat May 29, 2010 4:53 pm

Great stuff buddy Smile
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